completed · men's · project · winter

Finished: Newcastle Cardigan!

Mr Cuckoo’s Newcastle Cardigan
I know, I know! More selfless sewing! I don’t know what happened, but last autumn I was so productive when it came to sewing for Mr Cuckoo. He officially now has an entire outfit, made by me! Jeans (not worn here!), shirt and cardigan! Honestly, I was so thrilled to find Thread Theory, and I loved all their patterns, that I just snapped each one up as they came out! This cardigan was the first thing I started on after I’d finished his jeans, and it was super easily to make up! 
I chose some charcoal ponte/doubleknit stuff for the main fabric, a contrasting aubergine-y coloured knit for the yoke, managed to find some buttons that matched the contrast fabric, and away I went! I made up Version A in a straight size Medium, and had no problems with the constructions whatsoever, until I got to the buttonholes. Argh! I don’t know what the problem with my machine was, but the one-step buttonhole stitch absolutely would not work properly. It just got halfway through the buttonhole, got stuck and then sat there, creating an irritating mound of thread that I would then have to rip out. After ripping out the top button hole three times, I just gave it to Mr Cuckoo to wear, and promised that it would eventually have some buttonholes, and then he’d be able to close it!

I’m super proud of my straight topstitching on the yoke! Normally my stitches are all over the place!

It actually went into frequent rotation in his wardrobe for a good month before I could pluck up the courage to have another go at those button holes. Finally, after a lot of research into the automatic buttonholer on Brother machines, and creating button holes on stretch fabric, and using gimp thread with a one step buttonhole stitch, I finally decided to give it a go. And it still stuck. But I just gave it one last attempt, and kind of forced the fabric through the machine where it tended to get stuck, rather than let it do its own thing, and that worked! One buttonhole down, four more to go! Only, when it came to the next button down, it just sewed the buttonhole automatically, no problem. Same goes for the rest of them. So whatever my machine’s problem was, it was only with the very top-point of the placket. UGH. Whatever, machine. Needless to say, I was pretty triumphant when I handed it back to Mr Cuckoo!
I really like this pattern, and I’m actually thinking of doing what Morgan did and making one up for myself! I like to think of it as a kind of ‘classy’ hoodie/sweatshirt. It has all the comfort of a sweatshirt, but it doesn’t look anywhere near as casual. Mr Cuckoo often wears it to work, and has had compliments on it! I felt a bit smug after he told me that! The arms are pretty long on this pattern, which is fine for Mr Cuckoo, because he actually has really long arms, and hates it when sleeves are too short, and these are perfect for him but I think that’s definitely worth keeping in mind when you’re making this up.

I also love the collar, although Mr Cuckoo wasn’t 100% sure about the larger collar in view B to begin with, I think he might be coming around to it now. If I make myself a version, I definitely want to go for the larger shawl collar, because it’s not something I’d usually go for, but it would make the cardigan extra snuggly, which is definitely what I’m after at the moment!

I worried a little bit at first when I was sewing the collar that it might not match up properly, or that it might look a little strange or rumpled, but I’m really pleased with how it turned out! From what I remember, the instructions were very straight forward – and considering I didn’t have any sewing mishaps or times when I had to rip something out when I’d gone wrong or didn’t really understand what I was supposed to do (this happens to me all the time), this suggests that they’re pretty good!

ECU of collar!

A couple of final little points about the construction (from what I remember…. it’d be a lot easier if I either a) took photos and blogged about the make more quickly, or b) made notes!)

  • Since this was a (relatively stable!) stretch fabric, I used a ballpoint needle, but just used a straight stitch for all the seams and top stitching, and had no problems!
  • I made sure to use a knit interfacing for the collar, facing and placket pieces, but because it was such a thick fabric, I didn’t interface the yoke as I was worried about bulk.
  • There were times when the seam allowances made things pretty bulky, and I definitely recommend grading them, particularly around the placket!
If you’re on the fence about this pattern, I’d definitely go for it! It’s a relatively quick and easy project, but I think it looks like a lot of effort went into it when it’s completed!
That’s it for selfless sewing for a while I think! I need to do some serious wardrobe overhauling, which means more sewing for meeeeeeee! Yay!
Triumphantly fastened!
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2 thoughts on “Finished: Newcastle Cardigan!

  1. This looks great! Isn't this a fun pattern to put together? I had the worst time getting the buttonholes to work when I made this sweater, too. I have a 4-step buttonhole, and it kept slowing down and sewing over the same spot, so I had to force it through and sort of approximate the speed of the sewing machine. Harrowing! They turned out OK, though (anyway, my pop hasn't complained about them, heeheehee!).

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  2. I think it must be a mixure of the fabric being heavy AND stretchy! It was pretty infuriating trying to get those buttonholes done, but that was the ONLY problem I had with it! I can definitely see me making another couple of these, since they're so quick to put together! 🙂 I may even make one for my dad too!

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